Reducing noise in a digital photo is a hot topic, particularly for photographers who frequently shoot at high ISOs. Even if you’re not a typical low light shooter, the temptation may arise with some of the newer digital cameras that offer incredibly high ISO speeds which still produce pretty pleasing images, even with noise. There are many factors that can produce noise in your images, and there are many ways to reduce or sometimes even avoid noise all together. This article in particular will highlight one post-processing trick to reduce noise using a third party plugin called Photo Ninja. Made by the folks over at PictureCode, Photo Ninja is a RAW converter for both Windows and Mac OS X computers. It uses a built-in browser to open most RAW file formats, as well as JPEG and TIFF images. It also integrates well with many photo browsing and editing applications including Adobe Photoshop and Lightroom. The plugin has been around since 2003 when it was launched under the name Noise Ninja. Today, the current product has expanded and is now known as Photo Ninja, and it offers a host of editing adjustments with its signature Noise Ninja 3.0 included……..
Today Adobe released Photoshop CC 2014.2, this post covers the updates to this amazing release, there will be upcoming posts covering some of the items in much more detail. Creative Cloud Libraries. This new addition to the Creative Cloud will allow you to download graphics from the Adobe Market and have them available to inside both Illustrator and Photoshop. The Libraries panel also allows you to add fonts, graphics, PSD’s, colours etc all within the Photoshop and Illustrators. Any content here will be synced automatically to your Creative Cloud storage area. This feature is a wonderful enhancement if you have ever wanted to have a global set of favourites to your workflow. Of course you can create new libraries at any time to organise your content based on your preference……
Tonality Pro Verdict
There’s no doubt that there is a lot of functionality here for quite a modest stake. The ability to use layers to stack effects and the texture overlays make it possible to get lots of creative effects. Some of the film emulation presets look pretty much like the others, but there are enough presets across the board to give you specific effects that suit everything from portraits to landscapes and HDR projects. It’s also a bonus that a number of effects actually use colour as well as mono. The app is fast at providing previews and has a lot of different looks it can bring to your projects. It’s not as wide ranging as Alien Skin’s Exposure but then it is a great deal cheaper and easily represents the best budget option for those wanting stylish or grungy black and white conversions.
Detail of the update
The firmware update Ver. 2.30 from Ver. 2.20 incorporates the following issues:
- Addition of compatibility with “XF18-135mmF3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR”
To ensure that autofocus performs as expected, upgrade the firmware for the camera.
- Change of aperture display for zoom lenses
Display of aperture value when zooming with the shutter button pressed halfway will become same as the display when zooming without the shutter button pressed.
Conclusion and some more
So which one is best….? It seems Capture One right? Well at first glance I would also say yes, but again it’s not the complete story, to get a real winner we have to look at much more and that would go way too deep for this blogpost, but let’s just scratch the surface for what I use. Lightroom is awesome for keeping my catalogue, creating smart albums, books, printing etc. it’s in my opinion not beat by DxO and Capture One in that aspect, so without ANY doubt I would choose Lightroom for this purpose. DxO is awesome for noise reduction, optical corrections with a click, adjustments via the autosettings, integration with filmpack and user styles are also very very good and the end results are just a big step above Lightroom, plus with the newest version the integration with Lightroom is almost seamless so you can now actually stay within Lightroom but still use DxO optics, a HUGE plus for the people that need speed but also want a big step up from Lightrooms processing power…..
Replichrome is a set of film emulation presets for Lightroom and Adobe Camera Raw developed by Totally Rad. Recently Totally Rad launched the second set in the Replichrome series, Replichrome II. The first set was designed to emulate print film, so as you can imagine the second set is designed to emulate slide film. Replichrome II includes presets for Fuji™, Agfa™ and Kodak™ slide films. It is important to understand, that despite being a set of presets for Lightroom, this is a true emulation tool. By making use of Lightroom’s ability to use custom colour profiles, Totally Rad has used scanned film to profile individual film stocks and then combined them with profiles for various digital cameras to create a close emulation of various types of film. It is this use of the colour profiles that separate Replichrome from other Lightroom presets. The other major company to use this technique is VSCO film. People often complain about the cost of these presets, but there is a substantial amount of work involved in profiling various film stocks, not to mention the cost of the equipment involved to do this properly…..
For Fuji users:
- Fujifilm Tele Conversion Lens TCL-X100 support.
- Fixed issue with Fujifilm X-T1 raw images appearing too bright at high ISO settings when using Dynamic Range 200% and 400%. Unfortunately, this fix may affect the appearance of existing images captured with this combination of settings.
ACR 8.5 RC for Photoshop CC:
See on www.dpreview.com
| danbaileyphotoPeople love shooting the Fuji X cameras, largely because the images have a certain “look” to them. This is due to the Film Simulations that the Fuji engineers carefully modeled into the image processing software. These are taken from some of Fuji’s most celebrated film stocks from the past 80 years and they include films like Provia, Veliva, and Astia, as well as a handful of color negative and black and white choices. Whenever you’re shooting in JPEG mode, you select one of these film sims. The color palette of that particular film are embedded in your final image. Essentially, it’s like using film again. You choose a desired look based on your style lighting conditions and subject matter and go for it, and since the Fuji JPEGS are so good, it saves time from having to shoot everything in RAW and then process later. Having shot many of these original films, I can attest, they look great. Under most conditions, the JPEGS are more than adequate and perfectly fine for general use, and even a variety of professional applications. However, what about when the light is tricky or when you simply want more control? Up until now, if you shot RAW, you’d lose the look of the Fuji film sims, and believe me, it’s next to impossible to perfectly recreate them yourself…….
See on danbaileyphoto.com
My good friend and talented photographer Gary Tyson from F8 Photography in Hong Kong has recently put together a very helpful video on how to convert Fujifilm X-T1 RAW files into black & white with Lightroom 5.4 and Silver Efex Pro 2. If you are unfamiliar with post-processing your street photography into black & white, the instructions is a great starting point for any camera. You can also download my black & white Neopan 1600 for Lightroom here. You can download all my Lightroom presets for free here…….
See on erickimphotography.com
This is the long awaited final (for now) part of my series on Processing X-Trans files. In my ongoing quest to get the best from Fuji’s raw files, I’ve previously discussed the issue with Lightroom’s processing, some alternative ways of developing raw files using Iridient Developer and Photo Ninja. I’ve also offered some Lightroom sharpening presets that help mitigate the demosaicing issues a bit. Many of the comments I’ve received have been wondering if there’s a way to get close to the output of Iridient Developer or Photo Ninja using a combination of Lightroom and Photoshop. Surprisingly, the answer is almost. I’ve been working on this for a while now and I believe that by combining Lightroom and a little bit of Photoshop you can get close. The advantage of this is that you can get clean and organic looking results without having to learn a new piece of software, and by using the droplet as a plug-in approach I blogged about last week, you don’t even have to leave Lightroom…..
See on blog.thomasfitzgeraldphotography.com